Rona Lockdown Free Crafts Part 2: Flappy
If, unlike me, you aren't busy with a new boob barnacle and at the mercy of a load of other kids, who want snacks and also really want to talk to you about Stepford County Railway, Reddit, Youtube's monetisation policies, Roblox, what quarks might be made of, and Blippi, you might find yourself with time on your not-holding-a-baby hands and maybe you want to make something.
Several crochet patterns I've made over the years have been lost in time, so I'll be posting them here over the next few weeks. This pattern originally appeared on the now defunct web zine Crochet Me. As usual, this pattern is free. Free! No strings attached! You can make a bunch of these hats and sell them! (Tell me all about it and share pics so I can feel cool!) All I ask is that you don't steal the credit for the pattern or sell the pattern itself (feel free to share the pattern with your mates and print copies to give out, just include the url to my blog, please, and the wee copyright at the bottom). Also, please feel free to add me on Ravelry. (Flappy on Ravelry.)
(Formatting shamelessly nicked from the original post at crochetme.com. The cute model is my wee sister.*)
And guys, I know we are living in weird times, but please remember: it's not all doom and gloom.
With MC, ch 80 [100, 120], sl st in first ch to form ring.
* She is super funny and also a nurse, which earns her Rona bonus points.
Several crochet patterns I've made over the years have been lost in time, so I'll be posting them here over the next few weeks. This pattern originally appeared on the now defunct web zine Crochet Me. As usual, this pattern is free. Free! No strings attached! You can make a bunch of these hats and sell them! (Tell me all about it and share pics so I can feel cool!) All I ask is that you don't steal the credit for the pattern or sell the pattern itself (feel free to share the pattern with your mates and print copies to give out, just include the url to my blog, please, and the wee copyright at the bottom). Also, please feel free to add me on Ravelry. (Flappy on Ravelry.)
(Formatting shamelessly nicked from the original post at crochetme.com. The cute model is my wee sister.*)
And guys, I know we are living in weird times, but please remember: it's not all doom and gloom.
Flappy
Introduction
I've been fond of ear-flap hats ever since I first saw one in an Alice Starmore knitting book. Although I've never gotten around to knitting one, I've crocheted loads. The hat band, which can be crocheted on its own if you're just after an ear-warmer/headband (I don't know how people can pull those off so well, they look goofy on me), is done in front-post double crochet to create a ribbed faux-fair isle-style. If you're like me and you have loads of partial skeins lying around, this is a great way to use them up.
Materials List
- MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca.
- CC1 and CC2: 1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn.
- US F /5 (3.75 mm) hook
- Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)
- Yarn needle
Finished Size
Wee Noggin - 17.5" (45 cm) circumference, 6.75" (17 cm) brim-to-top
Normal Noggin - 22" (56 cm) circumference, 8" (20 cm) brim-to-top
Big Noggin - 26.5" (67 cm) circumference, 9.25" (23 cm) brim-to-top
Normal Noggin - 22" (56 cm) circumference, 8" (20 cm) brim-to-top
Big Noggin - 26.5" (67 cm) circumference, 9.25" (23 cm) brim-to-top
The pattern is written for Wee Noggin with changes for Normal Noggin and Big Noggin in parentheses.
Earflaps - 2.4" wide x 3.5" long (6 cm x 9 cm)
Pigtails - 8" (20 cm) long
Pigtails - 8" (20 cm) long
Gauge
19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)
Notes
This pattern uses contemporary American crochet abbreviations. If you are used to British, old-timey, or other abbreviations and can't figure out what I mean, either google it or leave a comment.
Fpdc = front post double crochet
The Pattern
Brim
With MC, ch 80 [100, 120], sl st in first ch to form ring.
Round 1. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. - 80 (100, 120) dc total
Round 2. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row, sl st in first ch to close ring.
Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc, sl st in first ch to close ring.
Round 4. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Round 5. Repeat Round 3 in CC2.
Round 6. Repeat Round 3 in CC1.
Round 7. Repeat Round 3 in CC2.
Round 8. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Round 9. Repeat Round 3 in CC1.
Rounds 10-11. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Fasten off.
Top O' the Hat
All Sizes:
With MC, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring. (10 sts)
Ignoring ch-1, begin crocheting in a spiral. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round. Move the marker up as your work progresses.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (20 sts)
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each st around.
Round 5: Work 2 sc in each st around. (40 sts)
Rounds 6-10: Sc in each st around.
Round 11: Work 2 sc in each st around. (80 sts)
Wee Noggin Only:
Rounds 12-27*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
Normal Noggin Only:
Rounds 12-18: Sc in each st around.
Round 19: *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts,* rep from * to * around. (100 sts)
Rounds 20-35*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
Big Noggin Only:
Rounds 12-18: Sc in each st around.
Round 19: *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around. (120 sts)
Rounds 20-43*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
* By all means feel free to adjust the number of rows to your preference if you want a taller or shorter hat!
Earflaps
With CC1, ch 10. Fasten off.
Row 1: Join CC2 in the blo, ch 1, sc in blo of each of first 9 ch, work 3 sc in last ch, sc in unworked loop of each ch along other side of ch to end. Fasten off. (21 sts)
Row 2: Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 9 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end. Fasten off. (24 sts)
Row 3: Join CC1 in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 10 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end. Fasten off. (27 sts)
Row 4: Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 12 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end, turn. (30 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of the next 4 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end, turn. (34 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of the first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of next 8 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end. Fasten off. (38 sts)
Finishing
With MC, sew or sl st (I prefer the look of sl st done along the outside, or right side for this bit) the top o' the hat to the hat band. Sew or sl st (I prefer the look of the sl st done along the inside, or wrong side, for this bit) the earflaps to the bottom of the hat band. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Pigtails (make two)
Cut (12) 24-inch strands of MC, CC1, and CC2. With your finger or a large crochet hook, wiggle a hole/gap in the stitches between Rows 5 and 6 of the bottom of the earflap. Stuff the strands through the gap and tie in a knot. Braid the strands and tie at the bottom.
(c) Chloe Nightingale 2006
FIN.
(c) Chloe Nightingale 2006
FIN.
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| Love you, sis! xo |
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